This was one of the things about moving to Japan that made me most nervous.
Well, that, and the whole can’t-read-much-of-anything-around-you thing.
Anyway, I went to AAA a couple days before we took off for Japan to procure my “International Driving Permit”. Know what you have to do to get one of those? Hold out a $20 dollar bill and sign your name once or twice. And I think you have to have a valid US driver’s license.
So, needless to say, I wasn’t really prepared when Uno-san (who I highly recommend if you have to lease a vehicle near Nagoya, contact me for his info) dropped the ist-o in my parking spot and showed me approximately how to work the navi.
Over the course of the next day or so, I crept out and around the roads of Nisshin, white-knuckled death grip on the poor handoru (as they call it over here - not wheel, handle). I woke up at some ridiculously early hour on the first day of work - the stupid sun comes up over here around 4:30 am. However, this meant that I had plenty of time to make the drive. So around 6:15 or so, I tenatively rolled off in the direction Eri-chan (my navigation’s voice) told me to go.
Here’s the dirt. It will take about two weeks of driving everyday, give or take, for driving on the wrong side of the road to no longer stress you out. Another week or so beyond that, you won’t even really think about it. But those first couple of weeks will be incredibly stressful. Here are ten reasons why:
1) You have to keep the car at a position that feels extraordinarily left-of-center to the average American. I found that by focusing on the car I was following (you will always be following someone, don’t worry), I could key off of the right half of the license plate and just continually drive toward that. That helped me re-train my brain.
2) The bloody turn signal is not the windshield wipers, and vice versa. I still do this when I am operating on instinct, or concentrating very hard on where I am going (if it is a tight entrance, etc)
3) There are too many tight spaces in Japan. I have been on two-lane roads that two HORSES couldn’t pass on, let along two cars. But we still manage it somehow. I don’t recommend getting a large car. And to give you some sense of perspective here, Rav4’s look huge on the road in Japan. Move down appropriately from that.
4) There are too many pedestrians and cyclists in Japan. You REALLY have to watch out for these guys. Always look both ways before pulling out or turning. On both the road and sidewalks. Stay close to the corner when turning so that bicycles know you are turning. If you swing it wide, they will think you are going straight, and blast right in front of you. Also take special care when backing/pulling out. Nearly hit an idiot girl wearing all black on a rainy night who flew in front of me as I pulled out of the gas station. Nearly had to clean out my underwear after that one.
5) A great piece of advice I got from a previous ex-pat - At first, just follow the car in front of you and do whatever they do. If this causes you to run a red light or two, don’t worry about it - the guy behind you will most likely blow through it too. This will at least get you going through the motions.
6) Which reminds me. Traffic laws are really just suggestions around here. You will routinely see people blow through red lights, turn ahead of a line of traffic, jump green lights by a mile (one guy was nearly to the next light by the time the light actually turned green - the lights were close together, but it was still pretty amazing). Also be aware that Japanese drivers are born with heavier feet than Americans. The usual method is to stomp on the accelerator and brake pretty much indiscriminately. There’s not usually much of an intermediate pressure.
7) Don’t count on parking. Anywhere. You will not be able to. Unless you enjoy paying parking fees that can run up to $30-40 USD for a night pretty easily (in busy areas, $2 or so per 20 minutes is pretty common). Make sure your hotel has parking if you are traveling. Always have somewhere to park.
Unless you are just running inside for a minute. Then please don’t hesitate to toss on the blinkers and park in the passing lane or anywhere else that might be convenient to you. This move is much better if you slow down inexplicably first so the guy behind you gets right up on you before turning on the hazards. I believe one night when one such denizen of Nagoya was “parked” in the turning lane I was trying to turn from I said some pretty unseemly things. “He better-fucking-be dead,” I believe, was the exact phrase. I know, I’m not real smooth.
9) Don’t take the highway unless you have to. Holy crap that too can get expensive. Always take people with you and make them chip in for tolls. A simple drive on the highway to Tokyo from Nagoya will run you about $75 US each way. It’s about a 3.5 hour trip. Invest in an ETC card if you can get one. They run deals and you get quite a bit of cost knocked off for various reasons (time of day, time of year, etc). For example, right now, you can go anywhere for 1000 yen if you drive on the weekends with an ETC card.
10) Motorcycles and scooters - These guys are insane. Do not be alarmed when they come whizzing up the berm and/or along the dotted line between two lanes. They will park in the crosswalk and they will always jump the light. One particularly impressive move was a guy who came up to the light, turned right and rode the crosswalk, got off, turned left and walked his scooter to the next crosswalk, jumped on, and pulled out, turning left into traffic as THAT line of traffic picked up the right-turn light, which he caught, so that he could turn right to continue on straight ahead of me while I watched, slack-jawed. I mean, I caught back up to the guy at the next light about 30 seconds later, but you’ve got to admire a guy willing to work that hard to hurry up and wait.
General Rule of Thumb: Estimate 2 minutes per kilometer for trips. My work is 12km (about 8 miles) from my apartment. I have made it in 19 minutes one time. Usually it is 25-30 minutes. If I wait until rush hour, it can easily be an hour. And up. If you are on the highways, you can do a bit better than this, but with stops and traffic jams, it’s still a pretty good estimate.
That will get you started with making the switch from driving in the USA to fumbling around on the tiny roads in Japan.
Bonus) Once you have gotten comfortable driving, please feel free to do ANYTHING AT ALL in your car during your morning commute. I’m not talking about boring stuff like reading the newspaper headlines… I have seen a woman putting in contacts, many guys shaving (with electric razors, of course), hundreds of people watching TV on their navi (they come installed so that the TV won’t work while the car is on, but all you have to do is ground some wire to some other bit of metal on your vehicle), a woman feeding (or doing something - couldn’t quite tell) her infant child in a sling around her neck (eat your heart out, Britney), and the crown jewel… a girl texting, putting on mascara, and driving SIMULTANEOUSLY. No wonder they outlawed talking on cell phones while driving here… not that I’ve ever seen it stop anyone from answering. Some stupid gaijin I have heard about flips through kanji flashcards at stoplights.
Hope someone will find this helpful or at least somewhere shy of mind-numbingly boring.